Model of Ciri with her default appearance from Witcher 3, I posed the model myself.
There didn't seem to be a model of hers which I liked, so I made this one.
Printed as one piece with very careful support removal, then painted with acrylics!
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I do not own the character model, so it's released for non-commercial use.
I used 3D builder to split this into "quadrants." I tried to make each part structurally sound -- YMMV. I haven't printed it myself yet. :)
I also trimmed 2mm off the bottom to make the bottom more level. I think that will help with printing.
This is a remix of Kickass3DPrints' Question Block cartridge case to fit 3DS / NDS game cartridges instead of Switch cartridges (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2517867). The exterior is the same, but the interior has been modified for the larger cartridges. Once I got started with these for my Switch games, I needed a matching lineup of blocks for each system...
Also check out Ethanfel's matching Brick Block (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2647064), POW Block (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2642892), and Switch Block (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2627168).
Video of the remix, print, and build process: https://youtu.be/ETrenKzUeFY
Long bowden tubes suck! This was even more apparent after installing a volcano clone heater block on my printer. You need precise control of the filament to keep blobbing in check.
Try this experiment- print out one of the many manual extruder knobs here on Thingiverse and install it on your extruder. Make sure the filament is fully inserted in your nozzle, and cool down your hot end. Once it is cool and the filament is fully fused into your hot end, turn the extruder knob back and forth and see how much the filament can move at the extruder with no movement at the hot end. The longer your bowden tube, the worse this is.
After looking through Thingiverse for a decent direct drive conversion for my CR-10 and not finding anything I liked, I decided to model my own. This fits on a stock CR-10 using the original style hot end (I am using the Micro Swiss all metal hot end).
My design goals were-
Cost as near to ZERO dollars as possible
Easy and clean installation
A strong and solid mount
Clear view of the hot end during printing
To those with concerns about adding mass to the X axis carriage- I say this: On an i3 style printer, It is irrelevant! Even with the big full size Nema 17 motor on the X carriage, it still weighs less than the y-axis- especially on a big printer like a CR-10. For comparison, my complete x-axis carriage assembly is 559g, a CR-10 glass plate alone is 1kg. Once you add in the heat bed, y carriage, etc, it's easily 2kg. And to make matters worse, the bigger your print, the more mass your y axis gets. Last I checked Cura 4.0 doesn't offer separate X and Y speed/acceleration/jerk setting, and definitely doesn't scale settings as the print increases in mass. If you are a speed junky, get a core-xy or delta printer.
Run by just blowing air into it. Demonstration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FDZzKAFSz4
Exploded view in 3d viewer:
https://skfb.ly/6LQBR
If you like how it works, you can support me by purchasing the Pneumobile chassis:
https://gum.co/pneumobile (3d Viewer: https://skfb.ly/6LV6D)
Works with this remote:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3675568
Or with simpler remote from the Vapemobile set:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3606204
Extra parts needed:
Optional parts:
Printed well with 0.6 nozzle at 0.2 layer height. Some parts (Cylider_Back_Lid and Valve_Lid_6mm) need supports. After printing cut away the brims from Cylinder_Ring parts.
Parts with "X_" in their names are optional.
Assembly:
Troubleshooting:
Metro Exodus. It's from the rearview mirror in the truck. Very easy to miss.
This is a motor drive for the GE "Build Your Own Jet Engine". It replaces the hand crank of the original.
I designed this to use a motor, switch and battery holder available from any RadioShack store.
The gearbox is a 243:1 speed reduction based on the design from "mirk", but shrunk to 50%. The drive chain and drive gears are based on the design by "peanut", only shrunk in width. I also had to re-draw both of these as Slic3r was messing up on the edited versions I originally tried.
http://youtu.be/eEZHopwp_uw
http://youtu.be/0vsQaENOMUE
http://youtu.be/94io_2Rzg4M
http://youtu.be/1e-gh9qcMAo
http://youtu.be/t0UVHZkPXHU
http://youtu.be/Mr3x3RQa9MQ
http://youtu.be/Dw0kpxK5sPE
http://youtu.be/cVXT8cPgXAs
As a celebaration of reaching 300+ followers i have decided to upload this wolfman figurine/miniature. It is useable for roleplaying games as a werewolf or in tabletop games.
If you like what i do please like and share.
I used the modular x-carriage base from MoonDoctor to design a new hot-end and z-sensor holder.
Also designed a new Part-cooling fan duct for a 5015 Blower.
The only thing that remained stock is the x-carriage base.
The sensor is placed on the left side of the print head and needs to be attached loosely before installing the chimera so keep that in mind.
I've also added the fusion360 file with this mod so you can make changes yourself.
I would love to see your creations of this print so please post a "made" if you print this.
I also Have a custom firmware build of Marlin 1.1.9 for the FLSUN CUBE Chimera for this carriage mod.
I liked bummster phone mount (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1313336), but wanted something more. Using that model as an inspiration I designed this model from the ground up, a model that would take less filament and work on either my camera tripod or GoPro mount.
I made version 2 so it could mount to both. I could have it attached to a tripod and then have a GoPro accessory mounted to it, such as a flash light.
Come join our Patreon!
For a few years now I have been building up a large collection of busts, cosplay, props and all sorts of models that were made for the Patreon page,
if you would like to check out the models that some of the 400+ members are enjoying printing, please join our facebook group!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/333491834120262/
Currently all new members receive access to the older models released, so we are talking suits, Full scale prints (like 1:1 scale articulated Droideka...) helmets, detailed busts and dioramas all for the low subscription of $10 a month.
If you think this might be for you, please click on the link below or through the facebook page.
https://www.patreon.com/Geoffro
Ho ho ho...Nakma Noya Solo! Solo!
For the life of me could not find a good hi res jabba to print, so I found a low res one and sculpted him up on zbrush and skinned him out. To be part of a big set that has been been done over a very long time, jabba, palace, leia slave outfit etc.. it will all get here eventually.
It is really fast and cool.
Hi there, I've spent many hours working on this design, so consider hitting the "Tip Designer" button on my page, or support me by purchasing this STL file from my Etsy store:
Also, if you would like one of these printed and shipped to you, click that same link above.
Enough of my shameless plug, (ha, it's an outlet mount that plugs in, puns, am I right?) here is my Google Home Mini outlet mount.
This uses no additional hardware, as it uses the power cord that comes with the Google Home Mini.
If you have any questions or would like contact me, please feel free to write a comment, or direct message me.
This is an earring with a musical note. Print it for that special occasion. Or just for fun and if you like music (who doesn't?)
Enjoy!
Raimon of IdeaLab
Instead of giving my nephews some cash in an envelope (which is what they want) I decided to check out Thingiverse for some inspiration of something a bit more fun.
I found this cool locked box and decided to redraw it to make it bigger so I could stuff some cash in there. I also made it a tighter fit and a bit more rounded while I was at it.
The name on the side is not included in the model I uploaded of course.
Just for the record, I have always credited Performance 3D for the original concept and said this was my rendition of their drill as it was not available for download at that time. Since I designed my version and posted it here, they have made their version available on their web site. 3Dprint.com wanted to do an article on it and I declined and pointed them to Performance 3D. So I am NOT trying to take credit for it. I only wished to share a design that I admired and which was not available for download at that time.
My rendition of a hand drill received from Performance 3D LLC
Added 3 chuck sizes
Video here: http://youtu.be/ut9gKJPn2f4
[Note for those saying "do you have the old version", or "tolerances are crap". Follow the link below and you can make pretty much any version and adjust tolerances as much as you like.]
This is a multiple level maze puzzle box. i.e. you solve one puzzle, and find there is another, and maybe another, before you finally get to the middle and the prize.
Customise: https://www.me.uk/puzzlebox
Multiple parts often print better (and faster overall) if printed separately rather than all together, and you can change colours for each, which is a nice touch. No support needed.
Ideal for birthday/Christmas presents like cash or lottery tickets - or even a ring!
Examples here include a lottery ticket gift box, a box for pound coins, some useful boxes (e.g. for a ring, etc), and a number of test boxes to check the clearance works on your printer. Use the link above to make a random maze with your choice of settings (of which there are many).
If you like this, do click like even if downloading from www.me.uk
The example files here have been updated from time to time - see version.stl for date/time.
The new version adds: maze inside and alternating version; text on end and side of box; helical mazes; grip on the base to make is easy to use; cleaner model with much faster render in OpenSCAD; many more controls; and, a simple web form to create mazes.
You can create a new, random, and customised Open SCAD file from https://www.me.uk/puzzlebox
Or make it yourself - the C code is in github https://github.com/revk/PuzzleBox
The possibilities are endless! Credit to my son, James, for the idea of taking my maze boxes one step further for multiple levels - well done.
P.S. Yes, there is one small loop near the end of the maze just for fun.
[Note, licence is creative commons ATTRIBUTION. A commercial licence is available if not using CCA, at £10 per print sold. If you are not attributing you are either breaking the law by using without a licence and so costing me the £10 I would get, or are agreeing to the commercial licence. Either way you owe me £10 a print, plus legal costs if I choose to sue you to get it. So ATTRIBUTE any usage of this model.]
NEW VERSION OF THE ONLINE G-CODE GENERATOR AND VIDEO MANUAL
I saw a lot of similar design, but nothing worked well for me.
So I decided to design my own.
I did a lot of variations of standard designs and a lot a lot of tests.
The result is here. :)
It is small and it works like a charm. :)
I did already a lot of prints and still without any problems.
Changelog
2019-03-05 - Added NEW VERSION OF THE ONLINE G-CODE GENERATOR AND VIDEO MANUAL
2019-03-05 - Added Holders section
2019-02-28 - Added a new direct version without a bottom pneumatic connector
2018-08-15 - Removed all G-code files and added a link to an Online G-code generator
2018-08-13 - Added UNTESTED V2 of G-code files
Multimaterial Y joiner holder for Ender-2/Ender-3/Ender-5/CR-10 and similar
Multimaterial Y joiner - How to build and install it on Ender-3
Owl statue... good for scaring away pigions and crows.
Please consider tipping the creator (cushwa) if you have enjoyed this model. This will allow me to create more great models for Thingiverse and the 3d printing community. I do this as a living and rely on people who enjoy my models to compensate me for the time and effort that I put into them to make them a good as possible. 5 dollar tip is not too much for a great print for you printer. Please click on my name (cushwa) at the top of this page and click on "tip the designer" in my profile page. Thanks so much. - Cheers
