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Despicable Jelly Lid


Tektronix TDS 220 Knob Ver2.2

GRUMPY MONSTER

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Self Portrait.
Found a photo of this guy on Pinterest and modelled him for a friends little 'un.
I think he's a character from Rayman so credit to the game designers for the original idea.
It is split to make painting and inserting the eye easy so make sure you put the eye in before gluing the two halves together.
Check out more cool stuff on my Facebook page Bigbangcollectables@300zxcolin
And my Etsy store https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/BigBangCollectables

Stormtrooper - Dark Forces

Ez 3D Printed OpenCat

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About:

Admires the people's work of Petoi Nybble open source project, this is an attempt to do it in 3D printing and using cheap 9g servos. This is not a competitive to the commercial kit they are selling, has no intention to go this direction. This is a kind of research and learn project for makers.

Different to Nybble, we design a battery rechargeable Bluetooth gamepad to control it. If you like to make one, see here.

History -

2019/05/05 - Tibia model for SG90 updated to V2
2019/05/08 - Uploaded models for MG90s servos
2019/0519 - Body & board holder models updated to V2

Video Demos -

https://youtu.be/yiAgtzOeWUI
https://youtu.be/MW2ZsW-Gn5w
https://youtu.be/3XeiM6aWjmY
https://youtu.be/TtKB2F8p1_s
https://youtu.be/vpNGVeKPDKE - string commands to control it are sent over the BT wireless.

Electronics and Hardware:

  • a HuaDuino board, it is Arduino Nano compatible with enhanced features. It integrates everything on a single PCB. It's a lot easier for people to make a bot with it. Embedded battery charging circuit, battery charging is more convenient.
  • a single 3.7V 18650 lithium ion battery or a battery pack(2 in parallel) with XH2.54 connector, high C-rating is recommended. You may like to use our design 18650 battery holder. It's placed onto the body chamber.
  • 11 x Tower Pro SG90 or compatible 9g servos. Or 3 of SG90 for neck, head, tail and 8 of MG90s for legs. MG90s is metal gears, will be more durable. So it is highly recommended to use MG90s.
  • a MPU-6050, places it to the orientation as shown on the photo.
  • a buzzer, It's placed onto the body chamber.
  • a Bluetooth module - BT UART (such as HC-05/06, SPP-CA) or Bluetooth LE (such as HM-10,BT05) for commands sending over from serial console which can be a smart phone App or desktop/notebook computer program; set bluetooth module baud rate to 38400
  • a HC-SR04 ultrasound sensor, it is optional as it does not do useful function in the code, it is placed on the head, can take the eyes model as the replacement.
  • dupoint wires
  • about 12 of m2x6 tapping screws

Software:

Ez OpenCat Codes -

  • Arduino sketches on github, it is modified for the HuaDuino board; looks at Petoi Nybble and watch this video (https://youtu.be/w0w5bEd15Ac) to find the instructions to do uploading and calibration; the code is still a work in progress, not final. It is still needed improvement. You're welcome to contribute.
  • In general, there are 2 steps of sketch uploading, first uploads WriteInstinct sketch and do the calibaration of MPU and servos. Properly doing the calibration is important because it highly affects the locomotion correctness. Second, uploads Nybble sketch which is the main code.
  • To successfully do the sketch compilation and uploading, supporting libraries must be installed properly to Arduino IDE in prior. If it is unfamiliar to you, this tutorial will be helpful.

Supporting Arduino Libraries -

Wiring:

The connection of components to the board as followings

Servos -

  • head servo -> D3
  • neck servo -> D13
  • tail servo -> D12
  • front right shoulder servo -> D6
  • hind right shoulder servo -> D7
  • front left shoulder servo -> D8
  • hind left shoulder servo -> D11
  • front left knee servo -> D9
  • front right knee servo -> D4
  • hind right knee servo -> D5
  • hind left knee servo -> D10

MPU 6050 -

  • INT -> D2
  • SDA -> A4
  • SCL -> A5
  • VCC -> 5V
  • Gnd -> Gnd

Buzzer -

  • positive polar -> A3
  • negative polar -> Gnd

Ultrasound Distance Sensor (optional) -

  • Trig -> A1
  • Echo -> A2
  • Vcc -> 5V
  • Gnd -> Gnd

Controlling

While A0 connects to 3.3V pin, it is autonomous mode that the cat walks by itself.

While A0 is open, sends the command strings over the serial communication link such as Bluetooth UART HC-05 or TTL to USB serial port to perform the locomotion. The serial baud rate is need to match those set in source code. This video https://youtu.be/OKA0LZIIusQ is good reference. A more user friendly is to use the gamepad we design.

Tested Command Strings for Locomotion:

Summaries as followings -

  • "krest" or "d" - stop servos
  • "kbalance" - standing up
  • "kwkF" - walking forward
  • "kwkL" - walking left
  • "kwkR" - waling right
  • and "ksleep", "ksit", "kpee", "kvt"

Yoshi from Mario games - Multi-color

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"Yoshi (sometimes specified as Green Yoshi) is one of the heroes of the Mario franchise, an ally of Mario and Luigi, and the protagonist of his own franchise. He is a member of the Yoshi species and has aided his brethren in saving their homeland on multiple occasions" - from https://www.mariowiki.com/Yoshi

The model is 12 cm high.

This is a multi-color print. Print each part in the right color and glue then afterwards.

Most of the parts are support free. Depending on your printer capabilities, you may need supports on the two main body pieces (green and white).

I’ve added two version for the arms. Each of the files “arm_left_complete” and “arm_right_complete”, contains the arm and hand as a single piece. You’ll need supports to print these. If you want to avoid supports, use the files “arm_left”, “arm_right”, “hand_left” and “hand_right”. Those have the arms and hands as separate pieces, to be glued together. Personally, I liked more the result of the single piece print. Up to you to decide.

Be aware that some pieces, like the split hands, have small bases compared to the overall size. Be careful to check your bed adherence. You may print the “eye_black” pieces laid on their backs, if you have problems.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Enjoy!

Skull - The Three Wise Skulls

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A Neu Halloween version now available
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Update3: 3 new files with a cool base plate have been added!!!
the base is turned 180 degrees on one of the files the other one is normal, u can choose which u think is cooler;) the 3rd file doesnt have the 2 extra skulls on the plate giving it simple clean look.

File1: skulls_with_2_skullback_base_fixed.stl
File2: skulls_with_2_skullfront_base_fixed.stl
File3: 3 skulls with plain base.stl

both have been run through www.service.netfabb.com

base was remixed from a remix that was already remixed here (lol): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2830337
original Raven skull base here:
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-raven-skull-2902

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Update2: new files have been uploaded where the holes in the eye socket have been filled/thickened

File 1: "16cm Three wise skulls" can be scaled down to 6.5cm (40%) without holes appearing (with an extrusion width of 0.45mm)

File 2: "The Three Wise Skulls 20mb" can be scaled down to 9cm (70%) without holes appearing (with an extrusion width of 0.45mm)

File 3 "Three_wise_skulls_meshmixer2.stl" is the original file with some holes in the eyes, some people may like that look so im not deleting it

i fixed File 1 in Mesh mixer and file 2 was remixed by Dafydd Brown

Big thx to Dafydd Brown (https://www.thingiverse.com/tetradb/about) for fixing the file in blender and reducing the size

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Update1:
Model has a small hole in the left eye from the middle skull. if u print it small it might have 4 small holes in it where th eyes are. it can still be printed because it sort of fits to an old skull but im working on closing the hole and trying to thicken the other parts

Three wise skull made with photogrammetry.

no supports needed

Legion Longsword Quad Heavy Bolter

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Hi, guys!
I like to present you a small artillery platform with 4 heavy bolt-guns. It's rumoured that it was used long ago by huge guys who love their father 30000. Or their heretic rivals... sometimes.

Now it's completely antique and such sharp as a rapier weapon become a rare wonder. But I'd like to share with you this model to encourage you to build the proxies of these platforms and pledge your allegiance to your blessed god... (or gods).

Also you could find another design in this bundle of mine: https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/games-toys/board-games/legion-longsword-bundle-with-laser-and-grav-and-bolter (and I would be really appreciate if you find it useful ^__^ )

Copyright infringement is not intended. Parts are created freehand in 3d modelling software, no copyrighted product had been scanned or copied in any way. These models are for personal use as proxies and should never be sold.


CR10s pro tool

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this tool is very easy to use to get the same Z height on both sides .also now you have your both hands free to adjust .

there are to versions of thickness = 0.5mm or 10mm

NC Funny

Creality CR-10S Pro part cooling duct

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This part cooling fan mount can be used with the stock 4020 fan as well as a more efficient (and more accessible) 5015 fan.

With this duct and a 5015 fan I printed the absolute best 3D Printer Test I've ever printed.

For 5015 fan:
2 x M3/25
2 x M3/6
1 x M3 nut

For 4020 fan:
1 x M3/18
3 x M3/6
1 x M3 nut

Owl Birdfeeder

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This is a large birdfeeder, prints without supports. 20% fill worked great. Birds love it.

Cr 10 S PRO filament roller guide 608 bearing

Creality Stock Hotend Mount & Part cooling with BLT & EZABL

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This is a hotend and part cooling solution for the stock Creality or MicroSwiss hotend. The duct design is based on a proven part cooling solution and makes effective use of a 5015 blower. The hotend is cooled by the stock 40mm fan.
There is no need to cut threads as recesses are included that will accept M3 nuts providing a threaded anchor for M3 bolts, two of which are required to secure the hotend duct to the X carriage. Two more secure the BLTouch bracket. A single M3 bolt clamps the height adjustable part cooling duct in place, and one secures the 5015 blower to the duct.

BLTouch offset: X -41.24, Y -6.25
EZABL 18mm offset: X -47.15, Y -16.44

28-10-18: EZABL 18mm bracket added.

3-11-18: ABL brackets and HEDuct updated to remedy a couple of minor interferences.

21-11-18: Major update to both the duct and the hotend shroud. Airflow has now been optimised using CFD analysis for improved part cooling, and far less spillage of airflow from the hotend to the part. A second duct fixing has been added to address concerns about the stability of the duct.

26-11-18: Revised version of the hotend duct uploaded after the omission of a relief cut for the lower wheel nut was noticed by a user. Apologies for any inconvenience.

28-11-18: Revised EZABL bracket added to overcome an interference with the new duct. Apologies for any inconvenience.

14-12-18: Check out https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3279582 if you need a mount for a 12mm ABL probe.

4-1-19: A revised duct has been uploaded to address an interference with the bottom of the X carriage.

7-1-19: V4 duct uploaded to address am issue with a thin wall.

10-02-19 V3 of the hotend duct uploaded to address the missing 40mm fan bolt holes. Apologies.

11-3-19: Revision of the shroud and duct to accommodate the Microswiss hotend with a bit more clearance, more vertical adjustment of the duct and improved duct mounting with two bolts.

13-3-19: V2 of the revised shroud is uploaded to resolve an interference with the BLTouch.

1/5/19: A revised shroud has been uploaded with space for the MicroSwiss hotend. There is also a revised duct with two mounting points for the 5015 blower is response to requests.
The slightly awkward overhang on the radius of the duct has also been eliminated, but not shown in the images.

8/6/19: I've added an adapter so users who prefer a 40 x 40 x 20mm hotend fan don't feel left out. :)

29/6/19: The 4020 adapter is fixed to allow full movement of the part cooling duct.

Horse phone stand no support

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This model is beautiful but notoriously difficult to print. After failing 3 times on my well-calibrated Prusa i3 MK2S I decided to cut it into 3 pieces so I can print it w/o support.


Mulbot - The Mostly Printed 3D Printer

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The Mulbot is a open source mostly printed printer that I designed to show the people at the Midwest Rep Rap Festival (MRRF) 2019!

I had a table for a few hours at MRRF last year and I brought these 3D printed bearings I designed that use recirculating bearing balls and naturally everyone was suggesting that I make a printer with them. By the time I was in the car driving home I already had some ideas in my head and a plan to bring the printer to MRRF the following year!

Important:

I want to make this obvious in case it was not clear. Below under "Where to Start" I suggest to print a bearing and a rail first. I suggest this because its the hardest part to get right and I don't want people printing the entire printer then realizing that they cant get the bearing to work. So please heed my warning and get your bearings working right before printing the rest of the printer.

Having said that, I have printed these bearings in different arrangements over twenty times and have not had a issue.

UPDATES

3/24/19 - I added a "UPDATES" module at the bottom of the page which will contain any updates or changes.

Stegosaurus Skeleton

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image

Perfectly Scaled

At 20 times smaller than its armored prehistoric counterpart, the MakerBot Stegosaurus Skeleton model is designed to let you get hands-on with this ferocious Jurassic giant. This intricate download was created by our talented in-house design team to be a handsome addition to any classroom or personal paleontological collection.

Classroom Ready

Discover the unique anatomy of the Stegosaurus from the claws up when you print your own. Pair it with fun lesson plans for an interactive and educational experience that will leave your textbooks collecting dust.

Easy to Print

The MakerBot Stegosaurus Skeleton includes helpful assembly instructions so you can reconstruct this renowned reptile with confidence. Download, 3D print, and say hello to your own personal dinosaur today.

Ender-3 Gopro mount

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Requirement...

'M3×45' × 4
'M5×20' × 3
'M5 nut' × 3

ENDER 3 PRO Belt Tensioner

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Also see the ENDER 3 PRO X Belt tensioner at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3319649

This thing UPDATED 1-30-19 -- upper portion was colliding with bed guide wheels.

I love the design by MakeChetti!
The main fixture body was modified, lengthened and 2 "stakes" added for the 40/40 rail under the bed of the Ender 3 Pro. The slide is 1.25mm longer and a little narrower in the cavity to fit the bearing that came stock with my Ender 3 Pro.
Also the adjustment nut was remade with the same 24mm / 2mm pitch and clearanced .2mm - it was too tight on my print. This nut will work well with the original. It is a little larger in diameter and only 12 dimples.

STL Files and STEP files included in case you need to modify it - the threads should be ok with the added clearance , if not stretch or shrink the X-and Y axis on your slicer

  • I used a 25mm x 4mm screw for the bearing with the stock nylock nut, but using MakeChetti's original "bearing_bushing.stl" you could make the stock, longer bolt work.

Good Luck!

Ender 3 PRO and Tevo Tornado X Belt Tensioner all STOCK bolts and STEP files

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Thanks to @Cornely_Cool for posting the SolidWorks files, so I didn't have to reinvent the wheel!

Just updated 1-9-19 the "Universal 2mm shorter Tevo X Tensioner body.stl" will work on all machines with either center threaded piece and nut. It will fit the Ender 3/Pro screw loosely (metal screw in the T-slot on front), but the belt pressure holds the piece in place. The screw is just an alignment tool/helping hand.

I hate confusing posts, so here: these 3 files will fit universally with as much clearance as possible:

  • Universal 2mm shorter Tevo X Tensioner body.stl
  • ender_3_pro_pro_tevo_tornado_x_tensioner_slider_misterguru_open_center.stl
  • ender_3_pro_tevo_tornado_x_tensioner_knob_misterguru.stl
The Ender 3 Pro and My Tevo Tornado both have the X carriage bracket slightly past the rail on the right. This is properly clearanced (and currently in-use) on my printers. It has a slim adjustment knob, open-ended. 2 versions of the slider/sled/puller - one with a too-sexy "landing bay" for your shuttle craft (nerded-out there!) and a plain, solid slider. Added shorter-belt main bodies (-1mm & -2mm) in case you have clearance issues (STL only). Do not remove your belt: place the bearing into the loop and push in from the top slot. My Ender likes -0.07 Horizontal Expansion (Cura) for accurate parts, but clearances should be good on any decent setup printer. Like my Y-axis tensioner, the threads are clearanced a little. It should print upright without supports - I use MG Chemicals PETG.

For my Ender 3 Pro Y Belt Tensioner https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3268192 STL and STEP files are included on both

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