Flexi-Otter inspired by the FlexiRex and Flexi-Dragon.

Use a small metal plate or bottlecap to hold the incense under the volcano and prevent burn marks on surfaces, Ensure central placement under volcano to prevent it melting. I have only printed this in PLA, i do not know how ABS will react to the heat!

The type of incense in the pictures is 2.5cm high!

Print time with 80/120 speed and 0.3 Layers is around 5-5:30h

I NEVER DREAMED I'D GROW UP TO BE AN ***HOLE BUT HERE I AM KILLIN' IT SIGN

A stand for the Forge 3D Bullet Bill. There is a 0.1mm tolerance between the inner and outer so they should push together with a bit of force.

The Bullet Bill itself can be got from https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-bullet-bill-26743

He's about to waste 2 minutes of your life with his ultimate spell!
Sorry for the crappy wing.

Built from scratch to defend the populace, this Warforged Monk has his own soul- and his own store of chi!

Just a simple little sign that says

DOORBELL BROKEN - YELL "DING DONG" REALLY LOUD

It's meant as a practical joke because anyone with common sense would just knock on the door if the doorbell was broken.

It's a small sign measuring only 73 mm x 30 mm x 1.6 mm but can be scaled up if you want.

Used tinkercad to merge the pieces, then stuck solid blocks and cylinders to fill the empty holes. This is for the larger wheels, so if you want to use it on the smaller wheels, you'll have to squeeze the stand in a bit. I tried it with smaller wheels and it's too wide, so the wheel just falls in between the two supports.

This is a SD card adapter housing for the Creality Ender 5. This thing includes:

1.Integral clips which locate into the 2020 extrusions so there is no requirement for any additional fixings.

2.Integrated clip to Lid to stop any transverse movement.

3.Holes for cable ties to help tidy ribbon.

4.Integrated storage slots for both SD and Micro SD cards.

5.Card insertion symbol and USB symbol.

The SD Card Adapter Used in links below:

Amazon UK site:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01C84YKVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=tv-auto-20

International Site:

https://www.amazon.com/LANMU-Extension-Flexible-Monoprice-Raspberry/dp/B01D9JIUU0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549048389&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=LANMU+Micro+SD+to+SD+Card+Extension+Cable&psc=1
Printing Instructions

1.Both things do not require any support but due to the printing orientation they both need rafts.

2.Printed @0.2 resolution with 20% infil (some images were printed @.01 resolution).

Update:22\04\19
Uploaded a version of the lid without an Ender logo

Hi Guys,

This has been asked for so many times, I thought id better get it on here.

This has been simplified to remove the PCB board at the back allowing it to be much simpler and people can just press print and go. I spent the last 24hrs tweaking the design to make it quicker, faster and better. I have tested these and have a whole pile on my desk right now. It works really well.

The components just press fit, and then designed to be held with hot glue. Solder your wires to the back and your done. It takes around an hour to print both parts.

You will require a 6mm tactile switch with 7mm extension and two leds which are dependent on the color of the annunciator.

I have included a lens template so you can just cut around it on perspex.

These are designed to work directly with Cockpitsimpart.co.uk Lens, but you can make your own if required.

The size is a little bigger than normal that fit into a mating receptacle. I used hot glue to secure them in place.

Avengers logo.
I included a version with a small hoop for a necklace or pendant,
This is my first 3D creation for 3D printing.
I hope you like the logo,

The AMIGAPI 1000 is an (almost) exact 3:1 scale model of an Amiga 1000 for your Raspberry Pi + 2.5" hard drive + SD extension + 30 mm fan (of course you can just as well use it for your Pi only).

I think it makes a great case for the RPi but even more it is a homage to the original design. I still find it amazing how much computer power one can fit in such a small case today - as compared to the original Amiga (which was an absolutely amazing piece of hardware in its time). The floppy drive works (kind of, I only tried micro SDs, not sure about 3.5" floppies), even the RPi status LEDs are visible through the hole for the floppy LED.

Here is what you need in addition to the printed parts:

• Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (but basically any full size model will do)
  Everything else is strictly optional:
• SD Extension (micro SD/TF to micro SD/TF - the shorter the cable, the better).
• Sata to USB controller - not sure this one will fit. Preferably a built-in controller from an external drive (most compact). Whatever model you use, make sure it is small enough to fit the case.
• A SATA 2.5" hard drive if you don't have an old one lying around (1 TB seems like a massive overkill - my first Amiga HD had 20 MB and it seemed like this would provide infinite storage space)
• 30 mm cooling fan - use one of the screws for the case.

RPi, hard drive, SD extension, and fan should clip in without requiring any screws. Also the cover. However, I have added a single screw at the back of the case to keep it in place (I used one of the M2.5x14 screws that came with the 30 mm fan).

The case is simple to print (in 3 pieces), assemble, and should not require any supports (however, bottom and top should be printed upside down). Use a few drops of glue to attach the bottom part (put in the fan first, makes it easy to fit the two pieces together).

The SD extension slides into the slot (you may need a drop of glue to fix it there) and the cable goes in the space below. There is a hole at the back of the bottom for the USB cable to connect the HD controller to one of the RPi USB ports (my controller is from an old external HD which has a mini USB connector at the side and perfectly fits when the HD is turned upside down).

Hope you like it. Have fun and please let me see your makes!

And of course, enjoy life and be careful with whatever you do. No warranty whatsoever. ;-)

Spider-man logo.
I included a version with a small hoop for a necklace or pendant,
This is only my second 3D creation for 3D printing.
I hope you like the spiderman logo,

I'm back ... I haven't tried to print yet ... if you want you will be the first to do it...enjoy :-)

Added a keyring to Bluebie's design.
! Not available for commercial use !

Also found a way to print without support
(see fotos)

The Foxmen army's basic warriors are out for my patrons. You will have full access to them even if you are a 1$ tier patron of me. As usual here is the free models of them. I gonna release a whole army of the Foxmen for my patrons. Check out my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/ilhadiel

If you like the models please give this thing a like.

Hi everyone!

I have designed Playstation 4 controller and headset mounts. The PS4 controller fits in perfect and holds very tight.

These mounts are removeable because of their simple snap mechanism.

Let me know what you think in the comments, or leave some suggestions if you have any!

Thanks

This is a scan of a real Florida MANATEE (family Trichechidae, genus Trichechus) skull and jawbone (mandible). Manatees are the state mammal of Florida, and are an endangered species. This on is on loan to me from the Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission and is curated at the Department of Anthropology at Indiana University South Bend.

This specimen measures approximately 15"x9", and is a juvenile female. Print it in parts, or scale down to fit your bed. Scanned with NextEngine scanner.

Print this unusual and rare specimen, use it for teaching, or simply educate yourself about zoology. Comment me for proper attribution if used in any other manner than personal. Not for commercial use.

Please post a photo to share if you print this, and check out my other scans of skulls and bones at http://www.thingiverse.com/dricketts/designs.

Be sure to "Like" my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/FetalReproductions to subscribe to my current prints/blogs, and see my Etsy page at http://Etsy.com/FetalReproductions for baby fetal scans, skulls, and other items to own.

This model is based on Jamie Hewletts amazing art, with some additions...
The plastic spoon taped to the ray gun is for pudding.
Don't feel bad for the teddy bear, he's a jerk.
The lipstick is for kissing, as are the adjacent bullets.

This is a difficult print for FDM... but in 5 years when we all have SLS printers, it will be much easier:P

I've included holes in the separated parts that should accept 1.75mm filament. This should help in assembly.

The largest part measures 197.1, 89.83 x 103.75. Reducing the file size is not recommended

Background

I was using an inductive sensor as my main Z_min sensor. I was unable to use it as bed leveling sensor because I was using a very thin and soft steel plate under the glass. This lead to several issues: the glass itself is not perfect. The steel plate under it was not flat even when compressed so both the steel and glass does not represent the REAL printing surface. Only a touching probe can give you that!!!

I like the idea of the piezo - but also plan to use PEI in the future and I would not like to touch a hot nozzle to that surface.

I like a lot the BLTouch - but the real thing is too expensive to my tastes and the clones are not that reliable and not so cheap as well.

I do not like the bulky thing, with movable wires and such, when using a servo and a mechanical end-stop. Also I do not trust the repeatability of the servo positioning.

I fall in love with these two designs:
Robscar Thing
Jupacreations Thing

Cheap as heck, simple, reliable, no dependency on servo position (the servo just raise the probe when not in use). But both are bulky and very specific to their owners printers.

So I started designing something I could just put in place of my old inductive sensor at my Hypercube Evolution. That is compact enough for any other printer (different fixation designs on demand! Just ask me.). The size is based o the BLTouch footprint.

Key Features

Some key features (this list is based on Jupacreations design description!):

• It can be used on all bed surfaces.
• It is not sensitive to temperature changes. **
• What you see is what you get during the working and setup.
• High accuracy and repeatability (better then anything at least at this price range! ;-) )
• Lowest price possible with ready to buy products. (I had everything at hand...)

** Well... it is sensitive to temperature... But my fault: I put the thing right at the heat flow path of the hot end cooling fan! Do not do that!!!! I am working on a solution :D

Bill of Materials

You will only need:

• 1x Micro Servo (e.g. TowerPro SG90)
• 1x Optical Endstop TCST2103 (RepRap Standard)
• 2x M3x10 to fix the optical endstop.
• 1x M3x30 as the probe
• 2x self cutting screws (2x8) fix the servo
• 1x Cheap made in China gift pen spring that fits the M3x30 screw.
• Some 4 wire cable **

** I like to use old USB cables for this! It is very common to have the micro USB damaged from use ao the cable is good, felxible, shileded and have nice and stadard colors. Use black and red for feed and the other two for each signal :D.

Instructions

1. Print Main and Flag (flag MUST be black or painted black!) parts and test if the flag move freely.
2. Put the spring (cut something like 10mm long) at the M3x30 and screw it to the flag mounted to the Main until the head is flush with the flag all way up.
   • It need to be as soft as possible! Mount or your printer and manually press 2.5mm the probe to check if it nos moving the sensor body or the gantry in any way. If you note some movement reduce the spring and stretches it;
3. Screw the optical endstop and servos.
4. Cut to length your servo horn or print one of the options available here (mine fits better with the 4.5mm inner diameter version).
5. Do not attach it yet! You need to configure you servo travel carefully before attach it!
   • I did use #define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {200,127} but you MUST test it with your servo. 200 is the maximum travel, when deployed, and 173 is retracted.
6. Configure your firmware.
   • If you use Marlin I do recommend to follow Robscar Thing instructions as they are great!

IMPORTANT: IF YOU USE RAMPS YOU WILL NEED AN EXTERNAL 5V SOURCE AS THE ARDUINO CAN NOT HANDLE THE SERVO CURRENT. I am using the same UBEC that I use to feed the Raspberry Pi. Everything is ground common!

Instructions for Duet Ethernet or Wifi

1. Connect to the GRD, +5v (pins 1 and 2 of the expansion connector) so supply power to the servo and optical endstop. BE CAREFUL AS YOUR SENSOR OUTPUT IS NOW 5V AND CAN NOT BE CONNECTED TO THE Z_STOP. Connect the servo signal to the pin 31 of the expansion connector (HEATER7) and connect your optical sensor signal wire to the Z_PROBE_IN pin.

2. At config.g:

   • ; Z-Probe
     M307 H7 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; Disable Heater 7
     M574 Z1 S2 ; Set endstops controlled by probe
     M558 P5 H5 F120 T8000 ; Set Z probe type to switch and the dive height + speeds
     G31 P600 X30 Y0 Z0.217 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
     M557 X47:285 Y5:280 S20 ; Define mesh grid

   The offset will be tuned later. Tje Mesh grid is used by G29 and you need to modify to your bed size and type.

3. Define the points for G32 (you will use this at your start gcode) in your bed.g file.

4. Configure your deployprobe.g and rectractprobe.g as follows:

   • ; deployprobe.g
     M280 P7 S200 I1 ; Deploy probe CHECK YOUR ANGLE VALUE
     G4 P300 ; Wait 0.3 sec. (this will give enough time for the servo to extend)
   • ; retractprobe.g
     M280 P7 S127 I1 ; Retract probe CHECK YOUR ANGLE VALUE

5. Do not forgot to configure your HomeX and HomeY to lower the bed before move and HomeZ and HomeAll to send the head to the center of the bed and deploy the probe before homing Z. Also the home Z NEED TO USE G30 INSTEAD OF G1 (hard learned lesson :D) Here are my Home*.g files for reference:

   • ; homex.g
     ; called to home the X axis
     G91 ; relative positioning
     G1 Z5 F4000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
     G1 S1 X-305 F3600 ; move quickly to X axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
     G1 X5 F3600 ; go back a few mm G1 S1 X-305 F1800 ; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass)
     G1 Z-5 F4000 S2 ; lower Z again
   • ; homey.g
     ; called to home the Y axis
     G91 ; relative positioning
     G1 Z5 F4000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
     G1 S1 Y-285 F3600 ; move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
     G1 Y5 F4000 ; go back a few mm
     G1 S1 Y-285 F180 ; move slowly to Y axis endstop once more (second pass)
     G1 Z-5 F4000 S2 ; lower Z again
     G90 ; absolute positioning
   • ; homez.g
     G91 ; relative positioning
     G1 Z5 F4000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
     G90 ; absolute positioning
     G0 S0 X119 Y140 F4000 ; move to center of bed
     G30 ; move Z down until the switch triggers (first pass)
     G1 Z5 F1800 ; go back a few mm
     G30 ; move Z down until the switch triggers (second pass)
     G1 Z10 F1800 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
     G90 ; absolute positioning
   • ; homeall.g
     ; called to home all axes
     G91 ; relative positioning
     G1 Z5 F6000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
     ;==============Home X====================
     G1 S1 X-305 F4000 ; move quickly to X axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
     G1 X5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
     G1 S1 X-305 F180 ; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass)
     ;==============Home Y====================
     G1 S1 Y-285 F4000 ; move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
     G1 Y5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
     G1 S1 Y-285 F180 ; move slowly to Y axis endstop once more (second pass)
     ;==============Home Z====================
     G90 ; absolute positioning
     G0 X119 Y140 F4000 ; move to center of bed
     G91 ; relative positioning
     G30 ; move Z down until the switch triggers (first pass)
     G1 Z5 F1800 ; go back a few mm
     G30 ; move Z down until the switch triggers (second pass)
     G1 Z10 F1800 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
     G90 ; absolute positioning

6. Then follow this instructions for testing and calibrating your offset: Test and calibrate a Z probe

7. After that send a G29 command to measure and save your mesh and use G32 at your start gcode so it home all axis, measure the tilt and compensate with the mesh grid.

MAKE SURE YOUR MOTORS, BED AND FRAME ARE ALL GROUNDED! I was having issues with static building due to filament and/or belts. This causes the servo to twitch and lose positioning. And also could damage your board :D

And that is it!

Instructions for Klipper firmware by kingfisher

ps.: There is a real need to familiarize oneself with the probe support documents before these instructions make sense!

Here is some sample code to add to the config:

[servo BFPTouch]
set pin to the pin that the BFPTouch servo is connected to.

pin: ar4
initial_angle: 0
enable: True
maximum_servo_angle = 90
minimum_pulse_width = 0.001
maximum_pulse_width = 0.002
Define a probe using the BFPTouch

[probe]
pin: ^ar18
speed: 5.0
z_offset: 1.0
activate_gcode:
SET_SERVO SERVO=BFPTouch ENABLE=1
SET_SERVO SERVO=BFPTouch ANGLE=45
G4 P300
deactivate_gcode:
SET_SERVO SERVO=BFPTouch ANGLE=5
SET_SERVO SERVO=BFPTouch ENABLE=0

Development History

Some photos are from older iterations of the design. Firstly I was counting on gravity alone to release the probe. Then I tried some printed spring design (that failed...) and the M3x30 was fixed to the flag with the head inserted to it. You can see on Mk1 that I cul a channel to be able to put the screw in......:D Then I decided to invert the M3x30 and screw it directly to the flag. And the final mod was adding more space for the spring as a release mechanism. During these iterations I also modified some tolerances.